Cioppino: The Perfect Winter Soup

Back in the day on the San Francisco Wharf, it was not uncommon for fishermen to share some of their catch for a communal pot, slow simmering flavorful soups and stews.

One such blend is cioppino. Some say that the name cioppino originated from Italian fishermen whose accented English altered the requests from “chip-in” to “chip-ino. Others say the name is the word “ciuppin” from a dialect of Genoa meaning “little bowl of soup." My vote is for the “little bowl of soup.”

Cioppino is often compared with bouillabaisse, or bourride—two types of hardy French fish soups, but it is unique in flavor and to the San Francisco Bay Area.

In truth, it best resembles bourride because of the use of wine in the broth.

Both soups call for a firm white fish, but in the United States and specifically in the Bay Area we would look for red snapper or sea bass. Tomatoes and garlic set cioppino apart because the sugo is layered for taste and texture which creates bread-sopping goodness.

Cioppino may have been born in the North Beach district of San Francisco along the wharf, but it got its refinement in Moss Landing.

Phil’s Fish Market in Moss Landing, near Monterey, is know for its cioppino. In fact, Phil’s is so recognized for great cioppino that Bobby Flay threw down and lost against Nona DiGarlamo’s recipe.

A dear friend of mine who is a Salinas local and a Phil’s Fish Market regular tells me that the prices jumped when that episode aired and Phil’s became a food destination.

However, Phil’s is still pocket-friendly. For $18.95, you get a large bowl of cioppino, salad, and garlic bread. On a recent pilgrimage to Phil’s, I was less than dainty. The meal also comes with a bib. Trust me, you’re going to need it and a lot of napkins. 

If you don't mind waiting, instead of traveling to Moss Landing for cioppino, in March you can buy a ticket to the annual at Saint Mary's Church. It is great local fun that contributes to a worthy charity.