La Maison du Cafe: The French Connection

Many who seek the good life believe that luxury must be paid for, but that is a myth when it comes to French food. La Maison du Café provides rich and luxurious French country food that is not beyond one's reach.

If you only live once, then you must embrace the art of living and the joys of life like taste and sensation, each of which can be achieved in one fell swoop by the consumption of French food artfully prepared for your enjoyment.

Overview: The culinary world has changed a lot, with globalization, diversity and fusion foods, but all things French still have the reputation of style, elegance and haute culture. And that's true especially with food, as it caters to those who seek an experience that provides a meal that is savored but also creates an indelible memory. There are only a handful of French restaurants in Santa Clara County. This might lead you to believe that French food has become obsolete, particularly with current food trends that drive culinary luminaries toward modern techniques and flavors. However, there is power and passion in traditional French cuisine.

is a restaurant firmly anchored in the best tradition of the French kitchen. The style is French Country, which moves away from putting on airs and being fussy. Chef Noe Baldez takes his lead from foods prepared in the Loire Valley, highlighting the use of herb and the creative application of sweet and savory to satisfy and delight your taste buds.

Décor: The dining room is reminiscent of a hunting lodge found on the rolling grounds of a French estate, like Le Château de Chaumont or Chambord. Decorated with high wooden ceilings, blue lattice wall trimming, impressionist paintings and vibrant green plants, one can envision the Von Trapp family having dinner next to you. Real calla lilies decorate the tables. The candle-lit ambiance creates an intimate feeling. There is a balconied area where a classical guitarist sits on the weekend to entertain patrons. During the rest of the week, music is played on the sound system, easily recognizable to Generation X and Y. Many are songs from the classics featured on many episodes of Loony Tunes.

Drinks: Vibrant French and Californian wines available by the glass or bottle. By the glass ($6-$8) gives you exposure to some nice wines that are as rich as they are generous. By the bottle gives you prices that range from $24 for the Beringer White Zinfandel to $325 for the Opus One. One can also purchase fountain sodas, cranberry juice, or apple juice ($3).

Appetizer: One classic starter is Escargot a la Bourguignonne ($12.95), fresh snail baked in butter, red wine, lemon, herbs and garlic. It is what one expects to find on the menu, but for the most part, it is a novelty pick for most people. The Champignons Farcis a la Florentine ($7.95), large mushroom caps filled with spinach mousse topped with marinara sauce, appeal to most palates. Other appetizers include Crevettes Bordelaise aux champignons ($9.95), prawns sautéed in butter, wine and herbs; Crabe “Poulette” ($10.95), crab legs sautéed with dried vermouth, lemon and mushroom cream; Saumon Fumee a La Moscovite ($9.95), smoked filet of salmon garnished with caviar, capers and black olive; and Feta Mediteranee ($8.95), imported feta cheese wrapped in grape leaves, baked and served with tomatoes, olives and toast points.

Entrée: Chef Baldez faithfully uses old-fashioned methods. The plates have generous offerings. The Supreme de Volaille aux Champignons ($21.95), prepared with chicken breast sautéed with mushroom in half glace Madeira, is a wonderful example of produce used from the farm and region. Other dishes highlight the use of wines and liqueurs—Supreme de Volaille en Sauce Calvado St. Michel ($23.95), Supreme de Volaille aux Picatta ($23.95), chicken breast sauteed with garlic shallots with butter, lemon juice, white wine and capers; Escallopine de Veau aux Pistaches ($28.95), veal sauteed in Madeira cream with prosciutto, pistachios and mushrooms; Supreme de Volaille Cordon Bleu ($26.95), chicken breast stuffed with ham and cheese then pan-fried in butter and Marsala wine with fresh herbs topped with demi-glace; and Escallopine de veau Saute aux Morilles ($29.95), veal sautéed with Madeira cream and morel mushroom.

Sides: On the lighter side, one could choose to have a side dish and another accompaniment as your meal. Some options are Salade aux Champignons, Gruyere ($8.95); Caesar Salade Classic ($7.95); Salad d’Empress ($10.95) blanched spinach leaves with crispy bacon, pimento, mushrooms, baby shrimp, grated eggs and hearts of palm; Soupe a L’Oignon Gratinee ($8.95), French onion soup baked with croutons and Swiss Cheese; and Bouillabaisse Marseillaise ($11.95) seafood bouillon with fresh vegetables, saffron, and herbs.

Dessert: There is an array of cakes available such as Coconut Cake ($7.50), Cheesecake ($8.00), Chocolate Mocha Crunch Cake ($7.50), German Chocolate Cake ($7.50), Pecan Tort ($8), Lemon Cake ($7.50), and German Apple Tort ($7.50) and Chocolate Mousse Cake ($7.50). However, these desserts are products of a bakery in Millbrae called Gourmet Express. Two desserts are made in house: the Crème Brûlée ($7.50) and Soufflé ($15.00).

Service: Wait staff greets you with kindness and fusses over you like long-lost family. The wait staff is knowledgeable of wine and ready to provide you with the day's special and its accompaniments.

Signature Dish: Medallion Café de Paris ($33.95), filets of beef sautéed to order with portabella mushrooms. This is the restaurant's signature dish, and it's a favorite with patrons.

• La Maison du Café
• 14103 Winchester Blvd., Los Gatos
• Chef: Noe Baldez
• Cost: $25-$75